Tuesday 28 February 2012

My Handmade Item - Garnment construction

I drafted up a pattern from a book to make a little summer top to wear with some high waisted jeans out of a book that I got brought recently and got to try out when I went home for a weekend. I used some material that I already had since this top was meant to be only for PDP and to practice my garnment skills and to help me draft patterns better. this pattern was designed to be super simple and for beginners but I'm rally glad that it came out well but will be changing the length so that it is a little bit longer since it came out a bit shorter than I wanted but otherwise fits really nicely else where and especially when worn with a belt on the waist.

Illustrator - First Lesson

Illustrator is the programme that we need to use with the Lasercutter, therefore I have downloaded Illustrator and have put my patterns into Illustrator.
We opened up a new document in illustrator, you can have multiple art boards up on illustrator to work with. The fill is on the top and the stroke is at the back behind the fill and you can double click to change the colours. in appearance you can change the line width by changing the stroke amount. \the white mouse will allow you to select a point and move a point around. With the pen tool you can create a circle and then using the straight line turn any curved lines into straight lines to create a square

Sunday 26 February 2012

PDP Day - Table

For our PDP appointment we looked at how we felt we were getting on and about work placements for summer. For my work placement I am trying to get a work placement at Debenhams for a week to do Visual Merchandising as I want to try everything out so that I am sure of what I want to do. I also want to try and apply to work in the Design section of a high street store i.e. River Island or Topshop. Angela has said that in order to try that  I need to up-date my CV and to also create a portfolio, so I will be trying to do that in the next few weeks so that I can start applying early.

Friday 24 February 2012

Comments + Reflection

Today I showed Claire my book and she said that the pages that I re-did looked really good and were much better organised.
She has said that I need to try and make some pro-to types of the shoes that I might make just so that I can have a play around with shapes etc, so I am going to do a few quick designs and make some mock ups out of card. She also said that I should try some collaging since I am using geometric shapes which I will try a few pages in since I think some interesting shapes could come out of doing so.
I also needed to figure out how to fit my Olympia theme with my Artists which could be harder to do however I have started to do that and have started with Jean Dubuffet which has been fairly easy and I've managed really well so far.

Sunday 19 February 2012

Paris Trip

Collette



Collette is a French clothing and accessory boutique. It contains an exhibit space, book shop and "water bar" serving over 100 different types of bottled water. The Visual Merchandising in this store is extremely good, the window displays are interesting and pull you in and the clothes are displayed in such a way that they are easy to see on you and encourage you to buy. The shop is laid out well and brightly lit. Shoes are even at the bottom of the mannequin displays to complete the look!



Louvre
We walked down to the Louvre to see the controversial glass triangle and to see some more of the sights as well as the architecture which I was particularly interested in since it is extremely different to English architecture especially the older buildings i.e. Churches etc.
Merci
We also went to Merci and saw all of the womens and mens department and all of the different things that they had, such as the make your own perfume and all of the little bicycle parts on sale. It sells many vintage designer items such as burberry coats and dior jackets.
Boat Trip/Bus trip
We were taken down a river on a boat to see all of the major sites such as Notre Dame, the eiffell tower, the concorde etc. We then went on a bus tour around them as well so that we could take lots of photo's which helped since the architecture in France is very different to english architecture and had new and interesting shapes that could be encorporated into designs.
Fabric District
The fabric district showed off many different types of fabrics as well as having many haberdashery stores in the area. the Marche St Pierre fabric store has a variety of silks, wools, linen, cotton and jersey. The Tissus Reine shop has a variety of patterns and there was a huge variety of buttons and trimmings to choose from. They also sold the liberty fabrics as well.
Premier Vision
We went to Premier Vision which is a trade share and showed us all of the different and diverse materials that there are as well as the companies that there are, from printing, to lingerie, to colour etc. It also showed different ways to put fabrics together as they had many types of different displays to pull you in and you got to watch people ordering fabric which was interesting to see how it was done.

Paris has helped because it has shown me a new culture for which to draw inspiration from, has allowed me to see different fashions. Has also allowed me to go to places like premier vision which I wouldn't have been able to go to otherwise and has allowed me to discover businesses that I may wish to intern with after uni or at least watch  what they do because I liked their style. It has also allowed me to see Collette which I can take inspiration from since I am interested in Visual Merchandising and can put some of what I've seen into practice. The fabric district has also allowed me to see more fabrics, to look at prices and to find out about different materials that are less popular in the UK.

Thursday 9 February 2012

Comments + Reflection

I started doing a few patterns for my lasercut excercise last week and she really liked the bold one with the patterned petals in and told me to try inversing some of my patterns and to play about with the shapes.
Kat also told me to try and put my second print, the leaf veins in with the other pattern to see how it would look as well as to scan the shapes into photoshop so that I could play around with them there for when I got my patterns that I may want to mix about together and so that I could convert them into a file I could use on the laser cutter. 
We also had the second idea to create movement that I would cut out tiny petals in black and white and use them to create layers and to tack them onto the other 2 patterns to make the pattern seem more 3D.
She also told me to do more drawings still, so I have looked for some flowers with more patterns that I could use since these seem to make the best effect that I like and so am looking for more patterned flowers.
I will be doing all of these things so that I can move forward and experiment a lot more with the idea of tacking things on, since it will give great movement and will be incredibly interesting. The drawing will help me create new patterns or add to my existing pattern and inverting the patterns I do have and mixing them together will give me new interesting patterns which could look very nice together or may look too busy.

Tuesday 7 February 2012

Photoshop - Start of Twiggy photo

the poster is to go behind the drawing. The Corduroy is to show how real fabric is.
Then we opened up the twiggy1.jpg in Illustrator. We then rasterized the picture and traced it and changed it to colour and changed the colours to 32 maximum.
Then open photoshop, we then changed the resolution in photoshop to 72, and changed the colour to RGB and the width and height.
We then pasted it as pixels into Photoshop. We then turned off the background but still have a white background from illustrator and used the magic wand to delete the background. We then erased her earrings out apart from where they sit in front of her shoulder or neck. Then using the magic wand tool we selected around her. We then use the smudge tool and smudged out what was left of her earrings. To make her smoother we went into Blur and used Gaussian blur. We changed the radius pixels to 1.2. We then used the blur tool at 100 and smoothed at the angles.
We then added a new layer and titled it dress.
use the pen tool above the T,  then do click on a pointed area and curved areas around the dress. Afterwards we select the converge point tool and alternate and press the cmd key to create a curve line around the dress. We then right clicked and made the path a selection.
and used the fill bucket and used a pattern overlay with the paper selection for the dress.

Wednesday 1 February 2012

Trend Boutique - Austerity vs Luxury

AUSTERITY
Why Austerity vs. Luxury?
The end of "era of mass consumption" & the birth of the "age of austerity"
The growing divide between the rich and the poor resulting in the squeezed middle.
Both in the UK & also Globally.
Economies split traditional (little or no manufacturing (reliant on service industry & our consumption), high level of debt, consumers need a reason to buy) vs BRIC(new economies i.e. Brazil - 6th biggest economy) ( Restrained consumption, strong manufacturing bases or natural reserves, low debt, growing wealth).
Since the recession we have started to see a change in the rules ...
- Ways we do business
- Who we sell to and the way we sell
- A reassessment of what we have to offer as a country
- Aesthetically design codes have also seen change
Key Drivers.
The current economic situation can be mapped out right back as far as the start of the industrial revolution ( 1790's-1860's) However even if we go back as far as the 40's there are a number of similarities & key drivers that bring us to the point where we are today.
1940's Key Drivers.
- the 2nd world war
-rationing, allotments & make do & mend
-post-war industrialisation
-high level of debt ( to USA)
- high birth rate & the introduction of the baby boomer generation
- the introduction of the welfare state.
Key Drivers - 50's - 70's
- post war economic boom went on until the 70's
- the advent of the teenager
- popular culture
- women's desire to work & have financial freedom
- the introduction of credit cards, cash machines, & desire to own home
- international travel.
Key drivers 80's - "Greed is good"
- top down economics ( tax cuts to wealthy to increase growth)
- the de-industrialisation of the UK
- the YUPPIE
- period of boom & bust
- civil unrest with riots, miners strike
key drivers 90's
- global monoculture
- information age
- personal electronics, mobile phones & video games
- utilitarian aesthetic
- 24 hour & Sunday shopping
- population growth through migration.
2000's Key drivers
- high employment
- growth in consumer debt ( at end of 90's had doubled from 80's)
- cheap finance, property boom & equity release offers
- conspicuous consumption  - "Bling" & "IT" bags
- throwaway fashion
- continued rise & expansion of the supermarket

By the late 2000's we had already seen a change in direction due to the September 11 attacks & the subsequent war on terrorism etc. We began to feel threatened so wanted to look to past/ family & friends for comfort. We had already become to understand the environmental impact. Recession bought about a time for us to stop & reflect. It also brought about the age of austerity and the end of our mass consumption. We have started to explore new models where we no longer need to own or physically produce an item.
We also started to become more radical & angry with companies that didn't fit our ideals. Plus the rise in social media also gave us a voice. the feeling of being squeezed cannot be underestimated - and has lead to significant growth in the value sector.
The age of austerity is defined by:
- the value sector showing huge growth
- Primark and Sainsbury grew their uk clothing sales by £1.1bn and £0.46bn respectively between 2005 and 2010.

But it has challenges too, wage inflation in Chine, Sustainability issues, increase in cotton prices etc.
Austerity is not just about e value sector, but wanting a reason to connect for the middle market/luxury sectors.
it has created more austere aesthetics : -rough luxe -hidden luxury -brand quietness.
Austere - darker tones/dull/simple/paired back/clean lines.

Re-defining Luxury 
The recession & the loss of the "pressitge (prestige for the mass market)" market has also led to significant shifts in the luxury sector.
- heritage & craftsmanship
-Eco luxury
- Bespoke & ultimate exclusivity
- new technologies.            
A return to heritage & craftsmanship is probably the most obvious direction, however it is not always the easiest to achieve for newer luxury brands
- brand resonance
- workmanship & traditional skills (can be difficult to find)
- materials of highest quality
- brand quietness i.e. Mulberry & Louis Vouitton

Eco-luxury is also another growing area, but again can be difficult to do well - also can be a complete dichotomy
- innovative materials & production methods
- working with artisans & craftspeople
- caters to growing celebrity status/ over seas markets i.e. Vivienne Westwood, Stella Mccartney & Lotus

Developing bespoke & individual items has developed around the need to cater for the extremely rich.
- wide range of services from traditional bespoke suiting to diamond encrusted ipads.
- growth in concierge services
- differentiates itself from prestige goods
-connoisseurs of luxury products i.e. Louis Vuitton, Couture shows.

Using new technologies in the luxury sector is often where fashion takes the lead
- social media (live tweets/feeds of shows)
- Augmented Reality, 4G & 4D technologies
- E-commerce & mobile shopping (& reducing the order process) i.e. Ralph Lauren, Burberry, Prada,Chanel.

1st talker - textile designer
moda show - birmingham.
Davinder Madaher

2nd talker - Social media: challenge & opportunity
Harvey Nichols using Youtube to brand i.e. The walk of shame, shows that if you did the walk of shame in Harvey Nichols then you would look so much better and would look more glamorous,. The video is quite fun and edgy and shows the clothing off well and caters to their clients and gives a reason to why you should pick a Harvey Nichols new years eve dress.

3rd- male grooming

4th talker - Lucy (fashion writer & trend forecaster)
Forecasts future trends and owns a Vogue endorsed ecommerce trend portal. Pret-a-rever
it is fashion editorial within the season.
editorial is very product led i.e. Net-a-porter can still have 400 pairs of shoes they need gone and so you'll get a special e-mail saying their great for the weekend etc.
live in a consumer led culture.
The Design Democracy/Dilemma
Karl line at net-a-porter, wont allow Chanel products online or to the website to be linked too. Chanel is a brand who engages with blogger and don't want their lines on net-a-porter.  he has developed a line though to sell on net-a-porter, the high street are making a living off the back of these designs and now they can get the millions instead of the other high street stores.
item Vs idea. market is focused on the item i.e. "must-have" it's taking fashion away from the creativity.
Fashion is void of creative people now.
pret-a-rever is about the dreams and inspirations that exist within collections.
Designers are trying to communicate with customers - Lanvin's video - pitbull